Sharpening talk...
I decided to put one of the 950 Forum Knives on the EdgePro for a little enhanced sharpening. I set it so the top of the EP bracket is halfway between the yellow and green marks, which should be something like 12 degrees per side. I used a 120 stone to make the major cut and then smoothed it out a little with a 220 stone. I'm pleased with the results...it's very sharp.
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That should be scary sharp I did 17% per side on my d2 bone collector and it was pretty sharp I think I'm going to 20% next time and see if that keeps it from micro chipping 0 -
The m4 on the forum knife sharpens great..you can carry it on up to 1000 or1200 grit and it looks good with the coating, makes the edge really gleam. 0 -
I guess if it has problems with this thin of an edge I'll probably just give it a micro-edge. Maybe I'll start with 15 degrees per side on a Sharpmaker and if that's not enough, I go 20.quote:Originally posted by Charles Martin:
That should be scary sharp I did 17% per side on my d2 bone collector and it was pretty sharp I think I'm going to 20% next time and see if that keeps it from micro chipping0 -
Those polished edges do look nice. For an EDC type knife like this one, I've had pretty good luck leaving the edges a little rough. That's why I didn't go to any stones finer than a 220. Stopping on a rougher stone seems to leave a micro serration...which helps the blade saw into certain materials, like an overly ripe tomato. Or any other time that a little serration helps.quote:Originally posted by w30hammer:
The m4 on the forum knife sharpens great..you can carry it on up to 1000 or1200 grit and it looks good with the coating, makes the edge really gleam.0 -
Over time , Ive learned that polished edges are good for looks (maybe shaving) but thats it. They even dull faster.
A courser edge is longer lasting and work better all around.0 -
It depends on your definition of micro serrations, I saw a TV program on the making of razor blades and under a microscope even the seemingly sharpest edges you still have very fine micro serrations but that's of course if you want to split hairs 
I've become very adapt at manipulating my Lansky and the truth is that a very polished edges are more for "feel good" than actual functionality and therefore I don't see the point of waisting houres on one knife just so I can see my finger nail on a 1 to 2 MM mirror.0 -
Ok It's a sickness.. can't help myself. Guess I need to find a support group for that I accept your point of views on a polished edge, But it only takes a few more minutes and when someone wants to borrow it and sees a great looking edge I think they respect it more. OK going to search the interweb to find a support group for people who like wicked sharp knives.0 -
Bladeforums maintenance and tinkering sub forum.
I like 400 grit for EDC work/random tasks. For letter opening, shaving etc, polished edges are great. I can push cut tomatoes at high grits.
Everything is serrated at some level of magnification, it's forming the cleanest apex that counts the most.
I've done hair splitting, tree topping sharp, I've done a fair amount of 220 and 320 grit edges as well for work knives, mainly because the guys end up nicking the edge, smashing
It into concrete and the time spent on their edges wasn't worth the cost of anything better (usually free) and after re profiling their knives, always a snap to sharpen them back up.
There are a few sharpening nuts out there, methods vary, at the end of the day it's a sickness.
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A knife just doesn't feel sharp to me unless it is < 20 degrees per side. I'm with Skimo, I'm usually happy with a 350-400 grit edge, which makes the job quick and easy, then a little cardboard stropping. That gives me an edge that will both shave and cut rope very aggressivley. 0 -
Good idea for a thread, Fj. I have enjoyed reading it. BTW, this type of thread is what got me to join the forum originally.
Anyway, I still sharpen freehand, and prefer oilstones from Norton. I know lots of guys are put off by it because you have to hold the same angle for the most part. But that's how I learned to sharpen knives and I've been doing it longer than I care to admit. I'm comfortable with it and get results that suit me.
Sure, it's fun to get an uber edge. But in general I prefer a good toothy working edge. And that's way quicker and easier anyway.
Just my opinion, ymmv.0 -
I have a lot of respect for those who can still create a great edge free-hand with stones. It's a skill we should all try to gain. 
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quote:Sure, it's fun to get an uber edge. But in general I prefer a good toothy working edge. And that's way quicker and easier anyway.
Just my opinion,
I agree ....... when I first started , I wanted Polished and amazing lookin.
Now Iam going for what works best as a user knife should.
Polished is for show ......Toothy is Tactical ......LOL0 -
quote:I have a lot of respect for those who can still create a great edge free-hand with stones.
Not Me !! ....Iam jealous as hell , that they can do it
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I do use a Sharpmaker for touch ups and recurves. Otherwise, running a recurve down the Norton smooths out the blade's belly--sometimes that's not a bad thing.
DJ and Fj, I'll give you the same advice you give out about the Edge Pro: get a stone and then just practice with a couple beater knives. You'll get the hang of it.0 -
quote:Originally posted by dj:quote:I have a lot of respect for those who can still create a great edge free-hand with stones.
Not Me !! ....Iam jealous as hell , that they can do it
It exist assistance help tool- bevel gauge0 -
quote:Originally posted by Trailboss:
I do use a Sharpmaker for touch ups and recurves...
Hehe, funny, I have a Sharpmaker too, but just hold the triangle stones in my hand, never use the base.
To T-boss's advice I would add, color the edge with a Sharpie, so you know where you are sharpening...though I do it by feel now.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Po:
Hehe, funny, I have a Sharpmaker too, but just hold the triangle stones in my hand, never use the base.
Right on, Po. I do the same thing sometimes but not always.
Out in the field, I'll use one of those flat diamond things that open up like a butterfly knife. DMT and EZE-lap make them. They're pretty good for touchups too. They come in different grits but I mainly just use "fine".0 -
Well, tonight I decided to try sharpening my re-ground ZT 350 on the EP. I couldn't decide on a setting, so I went with DJ's old standby...top of bracket in center of the blue mark. I must say, it did a fantastic job. 0 -
I just flattened about 5 EP stones. One recommended method from EP is to put a handful of sand on a concrete floor and then slide the stones in the sand in a circular fashion. The stones will develop a coating of sand anywhere they touch. This lets you know were the high spots are. Once the entire surface of the stone is covered with the residue of sand, then the stone is flat and you're done.
Sharpening with a dished out stone leaves unpredictable results. Flat stones make a happy face.0 -
Marking the stones with a pencil is a good trick. The pencil stays on pretty well but comes right off when the stone rubs it. You see right away the shallow places. As soon as all the pencil marks are gone your flat. 0 -
quote:As soon as all the pencil marks are gone your flat.
Good info there.0 -
Sounds good. How do I mark the stones...with 5 or 6 wavy lines or try to darken the whole surface?quote:Originally posted by Geocyclist:
Marking the stones with a pencil is a good trick. The pencil stays on pretty well but comes right off when the stone rubs it. You see right away the shallow places. As soon as all the pencil marks are gone your flat.0 -
I,d just mark the middle two quarters (if divided in quarters - four sections)
You know that any cupping is gonna be in the middle.0 -
I guess my attitude on sharpening has changed-- less fussy (read: less O/C).
My main work knife (154CM 520 w/ 522 scales) which I've carried for maybe 2 yrs now (used to rotate but too much potential for damage w/ rough use) was treated w/ great respect at first, then you cut some aluminum, then some wire (accidentally) then wire on purpose etc etc-- then recently it was either cut some graveled asphalt shingles or else-- you cut it, cut more since. Once you're cutting shingles you've pretty much hit the bottom....
Knife was so dull (and of course all scratched up, but it's a tool!!) that in a fit of inspiration I found some coarse (150 grit?) paper at the shop, layed it on the workbench, and spent a couple minutes handsharpening it (dry). Improved markedly! Later got home, stroked it a dozen times on my handheld ceramic.
Toothy edge w/ a razor overlay!
Nice thing is when I hang this one up I'll be able to replace the blade for $25+ shipping. But to be honest I doubt I will-- this fugly blade cuts as well as a new one would.0 -
Yeah, that's where I'm at...just purchased a very coarse stone file to do the job you did with the sand paper. Same philosophy though. If you've got a really dull blade, use the tool that raises you a burr with the least amount of work. Putting a good edge on it from there is pretty easy. 0 -
For the pencil trick just mark some "X's" all over the stone. No need to fully color it in. Make sure to get lines to the edge. Most of the dishing will be in the middle, the very ends will have no wear. After rubbing the stones a few times the marks on the ends go away. Then you can see exactly where the dishing is and continue flatting. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by ryxlyx:
Knife was so dull (and of course all scratched up, but it's a tool!!) that in a fit of inspiration I found some coarse (150 grit?) paper at the shop, layed it on the workbench, and spent a couple minutes handsharpening it (dry). Improved markedly! Later got home, stroked it a dozen times on my handheld ceramic.
Toothy edge w/ a razor overlay!
I do the same basic thing with my broadheads. I use broadheads that need to be resharpened instead of ones with replaceable blades that get damaged too easily. I sharpen with a 150grit Nubatama stone on my Edge Pro followed by a 240grit Congress Tools stone and leave it at that. Mini serrations for good cutting of flesh!0 -
Great thread! 0 -
It must not be that good...it's only got one star.quote:Originally posted by Trailboss:
Great thread!0 -
Tonight I sharpened an M4 710 on the EdgePro. I tried a new setting: I set the top of the bracket right at the top of the blue mark. I must say, it's a good edge angle for these. I started with a 21 degree per side, then went to 17 degrees per side, then this new setting tonight is more like 15 degrees per side, but I'd have to measure it to know for sure. 0
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