Custom shop image removal?
Hi there, new guy but have been a fan of Benchmades for a few years now. I've got about 10 in the collection so far with more to come. Anyways, I ordered a custom bugout about a year ago with one of the Benchmade images printed(?) on the blade. Unfortunately, I've never been happy with the image (my own fault) and don't really carry the knife because of it. Honestly it reminds me of a gas station knife. Is there a way to remove the image aside from sanding it off? I've done some searching and found a thread on using acetone to remove the blade coating but is the blade coating the same substance as what the image is? Sanding is my last resort because I'm a bit chicken and don't want to mess it up. It would be easier with a solvent if possible. Thanks a bunch!
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unfortunately i don’t really know of a way to remove the markings other than sanding & polishing the blade. the image you had put on is cut into the blade with a laser, same as the butterfly, steel marking, etc…….
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Thanks for the response! Yeesh, well I guess I'll get to sanding then.
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Just a few suggestions, as your "Big Chicken" comment suggests some trepidation. I've cleared many blades like this over the years. Understand that you are making a commitment to sand the blade face down below everything-- the grind lines, as well as the laser-cut image. The grind lines' depth is a constant, what varies is the depth of the laser image, depends on how much juice is used by a particular operator. Some images are gone quickly, some tho are deeper-- sometimes much deeper-- than the grind lines. Once you start you have a visual mess that can only be remedied by "going all the way". Takes awhile.... Your edge will be completely destroyed.
Steel matters to. I've no experience w/ the bugout but I'd imagine you have CPM-something steel. In my experience M4 for instance takes about a third-again more time than std steels, M390 is a third-again worse than M4. Something like S90V would be a real beech.
I sand on glass, I'll suggest you do the same. I find the work goes faster when I remove the blade from the knife.
220 is quickest of course but even tho I've done a lot of this work I usually start at 320, it's also fast, difference is an errant pass w/ 220 does a whole lot more damage than does 320. Once you've cleared the blade COMPLETELY 600 puts a nice "dazzle" finish on it, you can run it all the way to a near-polish if you want after that. Good luck.
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/|\ Bugout’s have a thin blade to start & sanding to get engraving off 2 sides, I wonder how much medal will be left & how much will the blade’s strength compromised.
If it was my knife I’d put it away with my plate form shoes from Studio 54 days which I look at once in awhile just to laugh at myself & say “what was I thinking”.
And I’d buy a new EDC sans engraving.
Good luck & let us know what you do & how it turned out
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@ryxlyx Thank you for the advice, I will definitely use it if I decide to go that route
@billhammer Hahaha! It'll be my disco knife from now on
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How about a pic so we can see what you're talking about?
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I've hand sanded coatings off
The auto Bedlam only came as an 8600BK or an 8600SBK & i wanted a satin one. I used 600 grit for coating removal & 1000 to 2000 wet/dry grit for polishing. At the right angle the laser etched logo is lightly visible. Thinning the blade would not be a concern if hand sanding.
Another method to remove the coating it to have the entire surface laser etcher, then some finishing sanding
It is also possible to have the company logo & steel type re etched by an aftermarket etching company. You'll usually need to provide the image in one if there accepted formats.
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Looks good
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Sorry for the delay. Here it is in all its glory.
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[@mention:697982242884765427] posted:Sorry for the delay. Here it is in all its glory.
Heck it doesn't look that bad. I've seen a lot worse laser markings that have been added to custom shop knives.
Personally I would use it and pick up another one less laser marks.
Acetone will not work. Don't waste your time. Tu and Ryxlyx have some great advice should you decide to remove the laser markings. As Ryxlyx you'll trash the edge and I've found that if you tumble the blade after sanding but prior to polishing you'll get a more even polish. Plan on this all taking a while.
I've followed the same process and have taken them in to my guy after the process to have the logo and steel side laser markings re-added and put a surgical edge on.
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I agree that’s not too bad, I like those scales so I would grab an FRN handled bugout and swap the blades.
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[@mention:589599268366321482] posted:
I agree that’s not too bad, I like those scales so I would grab an FRN handled bugout and swap the blades.
I think that's what I'll end up doing. Think I'll see if I can find a black handle with a satin blade and swap them. Then I'll have a compadre for my mini freak special addition.
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