The sharpening choil
Can anyone please help me with why this exists on a knife? It seems every Benchmade has one and it's a real pain when I'm using my knife, so much to the point where I don't even want to use it. I mostly use my knife to cut string or twine, plastic, cardboard boxes and almost everything gets stuck in the sharpening choil and I just end up tearing it instead of cutting it.
-
Welcome John.
Never heard of this problem. Couple of suggestions:
1) switch hands
2) longer blade so start cut middle of blade away from coil
3) just ask others to do the cutting 😂
PS what knife are you using.
2 -
Pictures help too
2 -
That's why Spyderco usually doesn't have a sharpening choil for the reason you stated. However, depending on your sharpening method the choil is a needed function. I use rods to sharpen and without a choil it's a PITA, as over time, the blade will develop a recurve.
Now none of my knives are for sale, so I don't really care if they develop a recurve or not, but others buy and sell all the time and try to keep them as pristine as much as possible. A recurve is a big no-no.
It's all a matter of preference, the reason why in addition to several BM's, I have knives from other makers all with their own particular "quirks and features". It takes a few minutes to make a mental switch to each design but after that, no problems.
2 -
Welcome to the forum John186.
One of the main reasons to have a sharpening is to have an obvious starting point of where a stone should meet the blade which is just beyond the ricasso of the blade. Another reason is so that while sharpening you have less of a chance damaging the bolsters when laying the stone on the blade or visa versa (Depending on the type of sharpener or stones you use). With most plunge grinds you don't need a sharpening choil as ColinP mentions above and I agree that its something to keep in mind when using your knife. The blade developing a recurve is not as mush an issue if you use a more modern sharpening system like the Wicked Edge. Sharpening rods on the other hand are more likely to cause recurve along the belly of a blade over time.
0 -
"A recurve is a big no-no."
My 710’s have a big no-no!!
It was explained to me once why the 710 came with a recurve.
Forgot why of course!
2 -
bm-butterfly posted:
"A recurve is a big no-no."
My 710’s have a big no-no!!
It was explained to me once why the 710 came with a recurve.
Forgot why of course!
Its why I now take most of my knives to my brick and mortar to get a nice even mirror edge done on their Wicked Edge. I've replaced all my older models that I took to the stones and that developed a "big no-no!"
0 -
But the 710 comes with one!
1 -
I understand the frustration. Eliminate the abrupt corner, you eliminate much of the problem:
Even if all you do is sand/soften the corner, holding the blade 90 degrees to the sandpaper, string/twine/whatever shouldn't catch as easily.
Better yet, if you are confident in your detail sanding skills, you can sharpen the curve as well-- R.
1 -
Thanks everyone. Yes i like the idea of sharpening the edge down. Maybe I'll use my angle grinder. My Bugout is my current edc over all else, though I'm deciding between the 531 and the para3 LW. Hell, even the new Bugout has my eye. Big fan of spydys too. Very glad most of them don't have the sharpening choil.
0 -
john186 posted:Thanks everyone. Yes i like the idea of sharpening the edge down. Maybe I'll use my angle grinder. My Bugout is my current edc over all else, though I'm deciding between the 531 and the para3 LW. Hell, even the new Bugout has my eye. Big fan of spydys too. Very glad most of them don't have the sharpening choil.
Use of angle grinder on blade will void your warranty
0 -
tu posted:john186 posted:
Thanks everyone. Yes i like the idea of sharpening the edge down. Maybe I'll use my angle grinder. My Bugout is my current edc over all else, though I'm deciding between the 531 and the para3 LW. Hell, even the new Bugout has my eye. Big fan of spydys too. Very glad most of them don't have the sharpening choil.
Use of angle grinder on blade will void your warranty
A 2" belt sander would be the best choice here as you don't need to remove too much metal. If you don't have access to one, I would suggest a good quality fine bastard to remove the corner at the ricasso of the blade. Of course you'll want to remove the blade from the handle first. Once you have the right amount of rounding you can sharpen it to match the rest of the edge and reassemble your knife.
1
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
11 comments