Stonewash BK?
Have any of our intrepid pimpers tried a stonewash on a BK coated blade?
Another member here recently posted an acid etched, stone washed 940, and it really made an impression on me. I don't think I want to do any acid etching, but a heavily stone washed BK blade should look very interesting...maybe the same with the aluminum 94X handle.
Another member here recently posted an acid etched, stone washed 940, and it really made an impression on me. I don't think I want to do any acid etching, but a heavily stone washed BK blade should look very interesting...maybe the same with the aluminum 94X handle.
0
-
I think that's exactly what ZT does to get their BW blades (is that the correct designation for their stone-washed bk's)quote:Originally posted by Po:
Have any of our intrepid pimpers tried a stonewash on a BK coated blade?
Another member here recently posted an acid etched, stone washed 940, and it really made an impression on me. I don't think I want to do any acid etching, but a heavily stone washed BK blade should look very interesting...maybe the same with the aluminum 94X handle.0 -
There are great YouTube videos on how to stone wash blades using an inexpensive tumbler from Harbor Freight Tools. We ought to try it on a bk blade. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by fastjan:
I think that's exactly what ZT does to get their BW blades (is that the correct designation for their stone-washed bk's)quote:Originally posted by Po:
Have any of our intrepid pimpers tried a stonewash on a BK coated blade?
Another member here recently posted an acid etched, stone washed 940, and it really made an impression on me. I don't think I want to do any acid etching, but a heavily stone washed BK blade should look very interesting...maybe the same with the aluminum 94X handle.
the zt blackwash was my first thought as well. i'd be happy if bm did it more often on any finish. that and their beadblasted finish as well. still a bit disappointed that kw's gray-handled grip didn't come out as originally advertised.0 -
I stone washed my 940 mentioned above, with smooth black hobby store rocks, in a seal plastic container. I shook the scales till they were evenly worn to blend out the worn corners. The blade was done the same way. It only took about 15 min shaking by hand. I tried a painted clip , and the affect was minimal. So I would guy you would need a different type of stone wash media to scuff up the bk coating. In my experience. The benchmade coatings will scratch, and wear on the high spots, but only because they are used in rough material that scratches the coating like sandpaper. I say strip the black coating acid etch and stone wash.... 0 -
Cool! I didn't realize it was this accessible.
So stonewashed coatings leave an attractive finish then? I would've imagined that s'washed bk would just look "beat up".0 -
And secondly, I wonder if a polished blade were s'washed if there would be any diff in the final appearance than if a satin blade were done. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by micahtbyrd:
I stone washed my 940 mentioned above...
I don't want to highjack the thread, but where's the link to this 940? I missed it. Thanks in advance!
P.S. The Ritter stone-washed blades are the cat's pajamas!0 -
Thanks for confirming that, Micah! That is exactly what I had in mind to try, just put the blade in a plastic container with some rocks and roll it around by hand for a while and see how it comes out. I've got an older 520BK blade to try it on. My inspiration was Micah's 940 though, so my intention is to get a 940BK and stonewash blade and handle. I think a stonewashed 810BK might look incredible also.
My guess is that starting with either bead blast or satin finish would render very different results. The satin stonewash might be very interesting.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Po:
I think a stonewashed 810BK might look incredible also.
I don't think the Cerakote that is used on the 810 will wear the same way the normal BK coating will. It is a harder surface, so my prediction is it will either have minimal effect, or it could end up chipping it.0 -
quote:Po said: The satin stonewash might be very interesting.
My guess is when you're looking at a typical s'washed blade you are looking at a s'washed satin. Reason I say that is cuz a satin blade is nothing more than a blank that has been ground-- the N/S grind lines clearly visible.
I'm wondering if mildly s'washing a polished blade might not lead to kind of a hammered polished finish....0 -
quote:Originally posted by ryxlyx:quote:Po said: The satin stonewash might be very interesting.
My guess is when you're looking at a typical s'washed blade you are looking at a s'washed satin. Reason I say that is cuz a satin blade is nothing more than a blank that has been ground-- the N/S grind lines clearly visible.
I'm wondering if mildly s'washing a polished blade might not lead to kind of a hammered polished finish....
That gives me an idea... I have a 551 that I polished the blade on, but I didn't go quite deep enough so there's still some grind lines visible. Since it looks bad the way it is anyway, I think I'll try stonewashing it and see what it looks like.0 -
quote:Originally posted by fastjan:
I think that's exactly what ZT does to get their BW blades (is that the correct designation for their stone-washed bk's)
I don't know how they do it but the ZT BW are awesome. Not only does it look great but it hides scratches.0 -
po, if you're going to follow through with this, a while back on another forum, i recall a guy doing something similar to a 520 and was using a sand blaster from harbor freight. it came out really nice (he did both the scales & blade). pm me if interested and i'll provide his user handle and the forum. 0 -
quote:posted January 23, 2014 10:30 AM Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by ryxlyx:
quote:
Po said: The satin stonewash might be very interesting.
My guess is when you're looking at a typical s'washed blade you are looking at a s'washed satin. Reason I say that is cuz a satin blade is nothing more than a blank that has been ground-- the N/S grind lines clearly visible.
I'm wondering if mildly s'washing a polished blade might not lead to kind of a hammered polished finish....
Something said: That gives me an idea... I have a 551 that I polished the blade on, but I didn't go quite deep enough so there's still some grind lines visible. Since it looks bad the way it is anyway, I think I'll try stonewashing it and see what it looks like.
Love to see the results of that! I think that would tell us a lot.
I have a spare 525M4 blade that has the bk coating still on the flats/spine, but the blade faces are polished. Was planning to prepare that one for sale, and I'm thinking s'washing it might lead to something different.
Gotta love reprofiling by hand....0 -
Here are pics of my 940 mentioned... 12 hr soak in mutatic acid, 15 stone wash, 1 hour of hand sharpening... I've done a satin 154cm blade in the past too with good results same method. You can stone wash any blade to get the matte Ritter finish. The stone wash finish is very durable and easily hides scratches. Its just a pain to resharpen after you dull your knife stone washing... 
0 -
Thanks! Looks great.
This one looks like the attack of the Giant 940, coming out of the city water tower. ROAR! lolquote:Originally posted by micahtbyrd:0 -
Here is the 551 I did a while back. Light acid etch with stonewash. I also stripped the clip coating and stonewashed it... Nice matte finish... 
0 -
Nice photography @micahtbyrd 
0 -
I like the looks of that 551 done up that way. and with the new finish but keeping the original markings it looks great 0 -
Cool stuff! I'm guessing you meant muratic acid? 0 -
Yes muratic acid for the pool... Thanks for the kind words all... 0 -
I'm missing something here. Acid etching on a clear tool-steel blade would certainly force one heckuva patina, but what is accomplished on a coated blade, prior to stonewashing? Looking at that great 940 blade, I would have guessed it had been stonewashed only...?? 0 -
You are miss understood... You cannot stone wash a coated blade the results will be a few scuffs, and maybe the high spots will wear down. My 940 had a satin blade. The acid etch makes it darker. Then you stone wash to get the light scratches... 0 -
Got it! Thanks. Blade looks even better now! 0 -
I had a CQC-7 that was a BK and I did it after I saw one that Dave Raydbom did.
His looked great and he said he put it in the stonewash and left it over night.
Mine I left in for about 8 hours and looked cool but not as good as Dave's.
Po if you want to see Dave I can send you the URL for pics.0 -
Thanks all!
Wow, overnight in the stone wash...dang...that sounds like a hell of a lot of shaking if done by hand. Mebbe a inexpensive tumbler is a requirement.0 -
All this has got me pretty stoked to try some of this. I think I will forgo the new coated blade and just order a satin, hearing some of the advice/experience. I have access to a tumbler and media blaster...may do a stone then a polish media on scales...fine ground walnut shells is whats in the tumbler now. Acid everything first.
Now just waiting for my knife to arrive, then round trip to Oregon City for the swap.
Cool thread, helpful stuff.
@ Portland ...I would be interested in that URL as well, pretty curios.
Thanks...very cool stuff.0 -
Well, my two oldest boys saw the stonewashed 940, and they want me to do the same thing with the blades on their Rifts (yeah, they both have a 950). I'm a cheapskate, so I'm wondering if using hot white or apple vinegar will be acidic enough to etch the 154CM? I know it will work on a carbon steel, but is it strong enough to work on stainless?
Also, what kinds of stones do I need? I don't have a hobby store around to get smooth hobby rocks. All I have is gravel and rocks from the driveway, and maybe some river rock if I can find some. I have a large peanut butter jar that I can toss the blade and rocks into and toss it in the dryer on fluff (no heat), for the stonewash tumbling.0 -
Smooth rocks work best... I'm sure anything will scratch the blade, I would stick with smooth to avoid chipping the blade edge on a sharp rock vs a smooth rounded edge... Vinegar will do nothing significant. Muratic acid is available at home stores for pools and cleaning concrete. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by micahtbyrd:
Smooth rocks work best... I'm sure anything will scratch the blade, I would stick with smooth to avoid chipping the blade edge on a sharp rock vs a smooth rounded edge... Vinegar will do nothing significant. Muratic acid is available at home stores for pools and cleaning concrete.
Well, I was hoping. I know it works OK on carbon steels, but wasn't sure about stainless. If I can't find any muratic acid, I'll get some PCB etch from RadioShack and dilute it a little. Sutherland's should have the muratic acid, shouldn't it? Do you dilute it or use it full strength?0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
76 comments