Torx Bit Sizes
Hi everyone,
I'm shopping for the most economical Wiha torx set, but don't know the common sizes of screws used on my knives. Any info is much appreciated!
I'm shopping for the most economical Wiha torx set, but don't know the common sizes of screws used on my knives. Any info is much appreciated!
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quote:Originally posted by Hooked on Benchmade:
Hi everyone,
I'm shopping for the most economical Wiha torx set, but don't know the common sizes of screws used on my knives. Any info is much appreciated!
T-10 for pivot screws and T-6 for the rest. The T-6 is the most important one because they being smaller fatigue easier.0 -
Thanks Boink!
I guess I'll end up with a few I don't really need, but so it goes.0 -
Yes, like Nate said, the T-6 drivers will strip-out or wear-out much faster. I bought two of that size in the high quality Wiha brand. For other sizes, the "cheap" torx drivers will be fine. I've never worn out a T-10, but I have destroyed a cheapo T-6 on one screw.
BTW, having two T-6's sometimes comes in handy on double headed screws.0 -
I bought this one for under $14 and it is incredible. It was also in my hand with 4 days from California. I was told T6,T8 and T10 were the sizes used by Benchmade. BTW- My 484-1 Pivot Screw is a T6- not a T10
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quote:Originally posted by akaSigFreak:
I bought this one for under $14 and it is incredible. It was also in my hand with 4 days from California. I was told T6,T8 and T10 were the sizes used by Benchmade. BTW- My 484-1 Pivot Screw is a T6- not a T10
Nice set. How is the bits working out?0 -
quote:Originally posted by akaSigFreak:
I bought this one for under $14 and it is incredible. It was also in my hand with 4 days from California. I was told T6,T8 and T10 were the sizes used by Benchmade. BTW- My 484-1 Pivot Screw is a T6- not a T10
Thanks for the recommendation-I saw this and was interested. Seems like a good starter set, compact and affordable. Doesn't include the T10 size, but I have another bit for that. It may even fit the above handle, IDK.
Thanks again for the input everyone.0 -
The bits and handle are great. I have checked all of the screws on my Adamas, Triage, Volli and Nakamura and didn't need the T10. I have another set of cheap drivers if I ever need a T10 but would still like to order the Wiha T10 ($3 on ebay) and some phillips/slotted screwdriver bits. 0 -
Just as a word of caution to some folks ........
Do not over tighten .......snug is fine , it dont have to be as tight as you can get it ........thats when you strip the screws.
I learned the hard way .....LOL
The same with plumbing ..........LOL0 -
quote:Originally posted by dj:
Just as a word of caution to some folks ........
Do not over tighten .......snug is fine , it dont have to be as tight as you can get it ........thats when you strip the screws.
I learned the hard way .....LOL
The same with plumbing ..........LOL
I appreciate the heads-up. Not much experience with these things..0 -
It's not the over tightening that is the problem. It is the loosening of the screws that have had too much locktite placed on them where most of the stripping of the screw heads have occurred for me. I would also recommend the standard size grip handles vs the tiny sets for those stubborn screws. It's much easier to apply more power. Benchmade is #1 why not your tools also. Wiha!
PS On a few of my early Benchmades like my mini-afck's the clip scenes were actually Phillips heads. I can't remember which BMK knife it was but it was a very early one also and I needed a T4.0 -
I picked up this set and it's pretty awesome.
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75...illips/dp/B0000WTBO4
~$42 and includes a ton of other micro bit sizes. If you only need Benchmade Torx sizes then def go with what akaSigFreak suggested but definitely order a T10 bit for it. I needed a good micro bit set anyway for many other hobbies/applications.
I've found you can get away with adjusting the T10 pivot screws with smaller bits but if you happen to come across a really stuck screw you have the highest chance of stripping it not using the correct bit size.0 -
This is all really helpful, thanks everyone for the suggestions. I haven't had the time to check all my knives, but used a friends set to check the pivot on my 908-1501. It's a T8, apparently. I'll have to do a quick survey with all my knives at the same time.
Different topic, but: if I want to adjust my pivot for blade play and ease of opening, etc, does it matter if the blade is open or closed? I understand that it's safer to adjust things with the blade closed, but I guess I'm asking about it in a functional/mechanical sense.
Thanks again. It's so very excellent to be a part of this forum, with so many experienced folks willing to offer their view.0 -
I have adjusted the pivot with the blade open and closed but it doesn't really matter which. Sorry I was off on your torx bit size. Every Benchmade i have is a t10 pivot.
It gets really fun working on knives. I like to fix up ones that have issues and restore them to the way they should be.0 -
I thought I was the only one who liked to restore knives. Do you polish the liners, blade tang & Axis post too? I can get a little anal.
I like to adjust the pivot screw with the knife open. It allows me to fix blade play, then adjust for blade drop. I'd rather have to flick my wrist to close the knife than have blade play, but that's just me.
BTW, I picked up this one for round $12. It also has a few other bits I needed. Ever try to get the thumb stud off a Rift?0 -
That looks like a nice, inexpensive set. The one I bought has so many bits it was ridiculous, but the problem was the T-6 and T-8 were not completely snug on my Benchmade screws. It was almost like the bits were a little out of spec and I definitely didn't want to strip any screws. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by akaSigFreak:
That looks like a nice, inexpensive set. The one I bought has so many bits it was ridiculous, but the problem was the T-6 and T-8 were not completely snug on my Benchmade screws. It was almost like the bits were a little out of spec and I definitely didn't want to strip any screws.
Makes sense..I think I'm gonna go with the inexpensive one you posted about and see how it works. If not we'll, then I'm only out 15$, and I can still use it for other things.
Thanks to all who have posted, you've been very helpful!0 -
Dont waste your money and go Wiha 0 -
quote:Originally posted by dj:
Dont waste your money and go Wiha
+++10 -
For sure, Wiha is clearly the most highly regarded by members here. AkaSig found a basic Wiha set that fits the bits inside the handle, easy for less than 20$. 0 -
Lesser known about Torx (the brand name original, not "star drive"), there are a gen-one and gen-two Torx. I forget if they are compatible forward or backward, the second gen screw with second gen driver has a higher torque range(subtly better engagement shape), though the main reason for second gen is that the patent had expired(thus royalties)
Also purple Loctite 222MS is the stuff for this, low strength intended for screws up to 1/4"-6mm, the blues are medium for up to 3/4"-18mm and is removable without heat, the reds are basically permanent(some even with heat) or for jumbo bolts. Might need to order it, purple is in the industrial Henkel-adhesives catalog but not the card-packed diy catalog. I use primer(contains a trace of copper, a dab 'll do ya) as some passivated alloys won't properly activate threadlocker.(iron and copper are both active, pure chrome[some stainless?] or pure aluminium[anodizing layer?] are not active)0 -
quote:Originally posted by Capsicum:
Lesser known about Torx (the brand name original, not "star drive"), there are a gen-one and gen-two Torx. I forget if they are compatible forward or backward, the second gen screw with second gen driver has a higher torque range(subtly better engagement shape), though the main reason for second gen is that the patent had expired(thus royalties)
In 1967, It was invented by Camcar Textron. it is ISO 10664, Hexalobular internal. There is also security Torx in e-## instead of T-##. It has post in center, so ordinally torx driver doesn't work.
Torx Plus in 1990 has more square edge to be able to use higher torque. Since original patent was expiring, it was made to improve torx. It is not compatible to use torx plus driver on torx screw. Torx driver can attempt to use in torx plus screw.0 -
Sounds right. I just did some more research into the details. As you said there is Torx and Torx-plus, both as internal or external.
On the driver side there is also a "Torx-align" which fits standard Torx internal fasteners but the driver has a bit of taper [like Robertson-square drives] for a tight fit that sticks the screw to the bit for one handed assembly. I also found out the officially licensed Torx products must pass both dimensional and strength audits with zero fails. They have lists of licensed makers. http://www.acument.com/licensing/licensed-suppliers/
Personally I'm a fan of the Robertson tapered square drive for small stuff, not as much torque but only 4 bit sizes vs 15+ Torx, and on dirty stuff cleaning out the muck from a square is easier.
Lesser known factoid is that the phillips design was purposefully designed to cam out as an assembly line torque limiting solution predating reliable tool clutches. Phillips only caught on because Roberton could only supply enough screws to Ford for the Canadian built model-Ts so american built Ts used phillips.(Robertson was sketchy about such contracts and refused to license the design to Ford)0 -
Just ordered a set of these. 
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quote:Originally posted by boinkman:
Just ordered a set of these.
/|\ Thanks for posting this Nate, I ordered a set too.
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I would get some but I have torx coming out my azz already ....LOL....Wihas 0 -
quote:Originally posted by Bill Hammer:quote:Originally posted by boinkman:
Just ordered a set of these.
/|\ Thanks for posting this Nate, I ordered a set too.
Awesome.
I've been looking for a set like this for a while. This maker does small batches so sometimes their stuff disappears quickly. When I saw they used Wiha bits I had to jump on it.0 -
/|\ I carry a T6 on my key chain from Lion but that set only comes with a T6 & T8. The T6 on a 940 works for all but pivot which need a T10.
Nate again thanks0 -
I was tempted to get an extra T6 but realized it was overkill. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by boinkman:
I was tempted to get an extra T6 but realized it was overkill.
/|\ some times you need 2 (like for the thumb studs)
I’ve a couple of blue box’s stashed different rooms of the house & a Wiha’s “s” style torx wrenchs. The “s” wrench works best on screws attaching handle to liner, whereas blue box Best on clips for me.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Bill Hammer:
/|\ I carry a T6 on my key chain from Lion but that set only comes with a T6 & T8. The T6 on a 940 works for all but pivot which need a T10.
Nate again thanks
Bill, have you tried blue Locktite for your 940?0
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