How quickly can you do this?
* Disclaimer: I am not advocating disassembly of the knife. It will void the warranty. Do not do this if you are unfamiliar with construction and assembly or not to risk voiding warranty.
No that legal disclaimer is out of the way, my question is how fast can you disassemble and reassembly 940?
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Don't know, but I took apart my 940-2 twice and made omega springs (twice) in under an hour - does that count?
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5 mins
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Yep... 5 Minutes... And not just a 940, but just about any Benchmade Axis lock Knife, except maybe the 710 Series with a multi-piece Axis bar. Of course this includes a wipe down and re-lube if required.
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Normally 5 minutes.
But I had one took over 25 minutes to get blade & 2nd washer back on what a b _ _ _ _!.
I found the free wooden chopsticks you get with Japanese food ( not rounded Chinese chopsticks) & a plastic toothpick are big aids in putting the 94Xs back together.
The chopsticks fits nicely between handles & when putting in the 4 screws that hold handle to liners it ensures the liners & handles snug up - those screws shaft is so short you want to make sure there no gap between handle & liners. The chopsticks soft wood will not scratch the knife like a metal screw driver might.
Once handle has been re-assembled, I use the plastic toothpick to hold back the axis lock while adding pivot washers & blade.
I tried a wooden toothpick but it broke off & had to dissemble to get all the little splinters out.
So those are my 940 assembly tips.
Please share yours.😀
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Generally take my time with both take down and reassembly. There's more of a chance I'm gonna strip or scratch something when rushing. Conversely I can pretty much reprofile any blade regardless of condition or hardness in about 5-10 minutes. Diamond stones are where it's at.
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It takes me 10 minutes on skinny AXIS locked folders. Grips may be 5 min.
Yes Bill, I thought you would be the one to tell us. Considering you are being one of serious 940 aficionado.Also you like polishing phosphor bronze washer as well as I do, if I recall.
Figures Wulff only takes 5 min
I use all of my fingers. 2 thumb to hold, index and middle, ring and pinky as pinching pair.
I would holding capsule liner together with thumb, index and middle while pulling axis lock with right thumb and index, then mate with bottom scale with left ring & pinky so run and push in the female pivot pin with right middle finger.Although I have bamboo thin chopstick, but I use stainless dental scraper to align bottom liner as axis pivot pin is keyed through liner hole that is also keyed.
Yeah, align bottom washer next is a bit tough until the pin go though the blade.
Rest is easy and quick.1 -
MFL, I believe you have more dexterity in your finger tips than me.👍🏻
Why I need the chopsticks & toothpick to assist.🥢
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boinkman posted:
Generally take my time with both take down and reassembly. There's more of a chance I'm gonna strip or scratch something when rushing. Conversely I can pretty much reprofile any blade regardless of condition or hardness in about 5-10 minutes. Diamond stones are where it's at.
I have seen your RSK-Mk1 blade swap One with REI scale and the other was NRA? Really nice.
Grip feels easier for me as G10 has more area to grip (no pun intended). I asked 940 because it is a tad bit more difficult.0 -
The auto axis with only 1 screw at pivot gave me the most trouble
I don't own a 940, but an 8600 takes about 5 minutes
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mobilefirelord posted:boinkman posted:
Generally take my time with both take down and reassembly. There's more of a chance I'm gonna strip or scratch something when rushing. Conversely I can pretty much reprofile any blade regardless of condition or hardness in about 5-10 minutes. Diamond stones are where it's at.
I have seen your RSK-Mk1 blade swap One with REI scale and the other was NRA? Really nice.
Grip feels easier for me as G10 has more area to grip (no pun intended). I asked 940 because it is a tad bit more difficult.Thanks MFL. They both were really quick to swap out. I did however have trouble getting the pivot pin through the Wilkins scales on the knife that was getting the camp Perry blade. It wasn't going through until I loosened the liner screws.
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boinkman posted:mobilefirelord posted:boinkman posted:
Generally take my time with both take down and reassembly. There's more of a chance I'm gonna strip or scratch something when rushing. Conversely I can pretty much reprofile any blade regardless of condition or hardness in about 5-10 minutes. Diamond stones are where it's at.
I have seen your RSK-Mk1 blade swap One with REI scale and the other was NRA? Really nice.
Grip feels easier for me as G10 has more area to grip (no pun intended). I asked 940 because it is a tad bit more difficult.Thanks MFL. They both were really quick to swap out. I did however have trouble getting the pivot pin through the Wilkins scales on the knife that was getting the camp Perry blade. It wasn't going through until I loosened the liner screws.
I ran into the same thing with my X2 Fire Wilkins scales on my Ritter as well. And had to do the same thing when it came to getting the pivot in. End result was perfect centering and no blade play. I have another set of Wilkins scales in Fire Ano that I'm going to be adding to one of my 558 Ritters in M390. Just wanting on some titanium hardware. It should be a nice "litter brother" to the 552 I finished not long ago.
When I originally read MFL's post I was thinking it was a "How fast can you do it" kind of thing. I agree completely with Boinkman that taking one's time is a much better approach if you want to get things right and not strip screws or accidentally slip and ruin your custom scales and such.
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On the standard 940's and other similarly constructed BMKs I have a slightly different approach. I assemble the Axis, Omega springs liners and or scales first. Not tightening the scale and liner screws completely at this point. I then use a small bit from a Kershaw TX Tool and slide it through the pivot hole just after adding the first phosphor washer. This keeps the washer aligned enough to slide the blade in place and push the bit in a bit farther. Next I add the last phosphor washer by sliding it it past the blade using a milled down bamboo chopstick. This allows me to get the washer to the point where I can align it and push the bit all the way through to the other side of the liners. Now its really easy to pull back on the Axis lock and slide the pivot pin through by following the bit, literally pushing the bit completely through until it drops out of the knife. Next I tighten the scale/liners screws rear to front and if the knife has blade stop screws last before adding the pivot screw and adjusting.
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Just blade and washers would probably take me 2-3 minutes. Full disassembly and reassembly significantly more, although if I'm doing that, I'm cleaning and loctiting everything which adds to the time.
For just the blade and washers the tricks I use are:
1. Loosen pivot screw 90% and push the pivot through with it for disassembly
2. During reassembly, I (a) put the pivot in a hair enough to catch first washer, then slide first washer in, (b) push the pivot in a hair more to catch the blade, then slide the blade in, (c) slide the second washer into position with a tool or toothpick eyeballing that the holes line up, then push the pivot all the way through.
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scottk posted:
Just blade and washers would probably take me 2-3 minutes. Full disassembly and reassembly significantly more, although if I'm doing that, I'm cleaning and loctiting everything which adds to the time.
For just the blade and washers the tricks I use are:
1. Loosen pivot screw 90% and push the pivot through with it for disassembly
2. During reassembly, I (a) put the pivot in a hair enough to catch first washer, then slide first washer in, (b) push the pivot in a hair more to catch the blade, then slide the blade in, (c) slide the second washer into position with a tool or toothpick eyeballing that the holes line up, then push the pivot all the way through.
/|\ taking apart is easy.
Re-assembling is where skill ,& little luck helps, I re-assemble same way except I insert a flexible toothpick to hold back axis lock so it doesn’t add resistance to moving the blade into proper alinement0
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