Axis lock break-in
So what is your break-in procedure and usually how long does it take to get it like you like it.
I have 2 new ones, 940-1 and a Bugout, that are coming along ok but still not as good as I would like. The 940-1 is getting real smooth but opening with the stud can still be pretty hard. The Bugout opens better with the stud but sounds and feels real gritty. I have checked and it is not in the washers as the blade swings and moves super smooth with the lock fully disengaged so it is all in the lock area.
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/|\ Still think it couldn’t hurt to take out the blades clean them off & polish the washers.
As to 940-1 it has same size thumb studs as regular 940 but is a little wider handle (.44 vs .41) so it takes a little more practice to hit sweet spot to open.
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I computer air the pivot and AXIS bar area, add Blue Lube to the pivot and AXIS bar and c air slightly again.
Then I add Loctite 222 I believe it is to the pivot screw. This Loctite holds the screw in place but it’s adjustable.
I hold the knife horizontal and pull the AXIS bar back. I want the blade to drop and barely swing. Check for side to side blade play and adjust.
All that being said with my three 940’s I only get 90% openings. I even traded out the stud for a bigger one. Do try pushing up at the same time as out. Still not 100% for me!
If I really needed it I would flick it.
I don’t have a Bugout - I have a couple really nice 531’s and don’t feel the need.
But gritty opening sucks. None of my BM’s have that. But I have heard of it.
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billhammer posted:
/|\ Still think it couldn’t hurt to take out the blades clean them off & polish the washers.
Bill when he releases the AXIS the blade drops freely. Not gritty.
It ’s the AXIS bar and lockup that is gritty.
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I would slightly(very small) adjust the pivot screw so you will get desire tightness or looseness you like.
Axis lock really don't need break in. Of course a drop of lube is always help.
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/|\ 😀 I still like taking out & polishing the washers - can’t hurt!
Have we suggest using a can of computer keyboard air to blow out any dirt - again can’t hurt.
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billhammer posted:
/|\ 😀 I still like taking out & polishing the washers - can’t hurt!
Have we suggest using a can of computer keyboard air to blow out any dirt - again can’t hurt.
LOL, good thing I had a can of air then.
So I took it in the garage and blew it out good and was still gritty so I then took a piece of blue scott towel and a small screwdriver and got it in the lock area and cleaned it good. Even shoved it under the locking pin and rotated on the towel and lots of black came off and hey that helped a bunch. So then I put a fraction of a drop of blue lube on the tang and started to work it some and at first felt pretty good but then starting getting gritty. WTH???? So I give it the scott towel treatment again and more black is coming off. Did it a couple of times now and it is much better but still not smooth. Best I can figure is that it is still creating microscopic shavings or something???????0 -
I take my 940’s, 950’s apart to throughly clean.
If you’re not comfortable doing that ( and wasn’t for years) you could send it into BKC for a spa treatment.
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Although it might not be related, as the OP state the blade swings freely when the lock is held back, I had a problem long ago that left a gritty feeling in the action. I had put a little too much loctite on the pivot screw and it leaked out under the washers. I disassembled, cleaned and oiled everything, and had no problems ever since. It did seem to have a lot of "black particles" I cleaned off, but they weren't the problem.
I can't imagine any 940 with a properly tensioned pivot screw would be hard to open unless there were some serious issues with the parts. If you are not comfortable with disassembling the knife, I would suggest sending it in to BM.
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scottk posted:
I can't imagine any 940 with a properly tensioned pivot screw would be hard to open unless there were some serious issues with the parts. If you are not comfortable with disassembling the knife, I would suggest sending it in to BM.
My 940 pivot is perfect.
It’s how close the stud is to the frame makes it hard for my big thumb to get in there to flick it.
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bm-butterfly posted:scottk posted:
I can't imagine any 940 with a properly tensioned pivot screw would be hard to open unless there were some serious issues with the parts. If you are not comfortable with disassembling the knife, I would suggest sending it in to BM.
My 940 pivot is perfect.
It’s how close the stud is to the frame makes it hard for my big thumb to get in there to flick it.
/|\ BM consider yourself a lucky man to have a wife who’s happy to help open your knife for you. 😂
Seriously the 940-1 isn't as easy to get open as regular 940. ( or a 940D2CF). Best advice is practice.
For me it is best to slide thumb along part of the blade that is exposed when closed & top of the handle, so motion of your thumb comes into the side of the thumb-stud from back of handle pushing forward & up.
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/|\ 710 is like that for me. Good thing Benchmades thumbstuds are nice and grippy.
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boinkman posted:
/|\ 710 is like that for me. Good thing Benchmades thumbstuds are nice and grippy.
I have no trouble with a the 710. Even though the stud is right up against the frame similar to the 94X.
The 710-1401 scales are beveled so maybe they were thinking about that.
I always find the bigger/longer/heavier the blade the easier it is to open.
The Loco, although no stud opens easy peezie.
Look how much room you have to get your thumb in there on the 810 Contego / 15080 Crooked River / 781 Anthem.
The 908 Stryker and the 531 scales have an indent to help thumb openings.
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Sorry to Jack your thread talking about BMK's opening (or not)
BENXBEC
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No worries man, carry on.
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Ben, Try pulling the Axis bar back almost to the blade release position while holding the knife tightly with your other hand and rotate the Axis bar. Once you know that the contact point between the Axis bar and the tang of the blade has changed check to see if you still get a gritty feel. If so try the process again. This will help determine if there is a rough spot on the Axis bar itself or if the issue resides on the tang of the blade. If the gritty feel is gone after the above just keep using your Bugout and eventually it should smooth out.
If your Bugout still has a gritty feel remove the pivot screw and pin and slide the blade out. Next lightly sand the contact path on the tang of the blade with 600 grit wet or dry and then 1000 grit, finishing polishing the area with 2000 grit. Next look at the Axis bar itself. Note any rough spots or dull looking areas. If you find any use the same technique with small strips of the aforementioned wet or dry grits but starting with 1000 grit and polishing with the 2000 grit. Now clean both areas with Isopropyl Alcohol and add a little Blue Lube to the contact areas. Reassemble your Bugout using Blue Loctite as BM mentioned above. Next with the Bugout closed add some Blue Lube at the front of the knife to the washers. I usually add a drip to the Axis contact area and then 1/4 drip per side at the the Axis slide areas on the liners. Adjust the pivot to get the blade drop you want with no side to side play and then start using the Bugout as your fidget toy of the day.
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Great tutorial.
Be sure to have quality Torx bits.
Wiha makes a nice set. Amazon $15
https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...le?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use Loctite 222 on the pivot
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/|\ Agree with all Tim suggested, but for me if the axis bar ( which is cylindrical ) has a flat spot I’d send it in for replacement. I’ve neither tools or eye to ensure the bar would remain round without a flat spot.
Good luck with your fixes.
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