How Many Of You Oil Your Blades?
I was poking around the knife section of my local dealer and noticed different steel protectants.. and thought to myself, I should probably coat my blades, especially because they are all in the hunting safe.. I opted for Tuf-Glide.
I’ve never really been into oiling blades due to never having rust issues myself.. But with the collection growing, thought i’d give it a try
I coated the pivot area and entire blade, and was surprised to see the composition dry, which is a plus for me.. Anyways, seeing that I haven’t had issues with rust w/out Tuf-Glide, I was wondering if the stuff works for you guys who live in more unforgiving environments.. Thanks
Also, if you have alternative methods of protection, please explain
I’ve never really been into oiling blades due to never having rust issues myself.. But with the collection growing, thought i’d give it a try
I coated the pivot area and entire blade, and was surprised to see the composition dry, which is a plus for me.. Anyways, seeing that I haven’t had issues with rust w/out Tuf-Glide, I was wondering if the stuff works for you guys who live in more unforgiving environments.. Thanks
Also, if you have alternative methods of protection, please explain
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I use Renaissance Wax and from what I read on Tuf-Glide, it does almost the same thing
"non-toxic “micro-bonded crystal barrier and prevent dirt and water from attaching to the treated area"
From a review I read on Tuf-glide.
The application of the RW is a little more primitive, you spread a very thin coat on the surface and then you wipe with a dry, clean cloth, up to now it works great and I barely used a nticeable amount.
It does a great job of preventing rust on my non Glock magazines.0 -
Depends. I do coat my bead blasted blades as they are prone to rust. For that the best I found was Marine Tuff-Cloth.
Anything that bonds with the metal is a good choice.
For just general use I use Rem Oil.0 -
I use 'em in only sub zero temps, no water, no rust. ; )
Seriously, been through Oklahoma, Texas, east coast, Alaska... Zero rust problems, so I dont do anything but clean them if they get gritty.0 -
I've never had a rust problem out here in this dry climate, so if my blades get any rust preventative it might be from me just cleaning off some tape gunk with WD-40. And, yes I know WD isn't much of a rust preventative...mostly just a water displacement spray and cleaner...but it does remove the glue and water and like Skimo says, no water, no rust. 0 -
I dip my blades in Rain-X then wipe dry after every use. 0 -
There is one thing that I found odd, I took my 707 out to the beach one day, swam with it, rinsed it out, cleaned off the small rust spots... Ever since then, that blade seems more prone to rusting. Anecdotal at best, I cleaned every surface, completely rinsed every surface and even sitting in my box of knives will start rusting.
D2 and m4 are rust free, if they start, I'll start boiling vinegar with a lid over it and hold the blade in front of the steam vent, patina the crap out of the blade and start oiling it.0 -
Usually will wipe down edc once a week or so when clean/adjust. Very light coat, then wipe dry. Hoppes#9 solve/lube. Been favoring Kroil these days..love the smell.
Non edc usually stay in safe, dehume packs, no electric, and those dont get anything more than a dry wipe after foundling. No oil. I keep my stuff/guns on the dry side,unless high carbon/blue/case hardened and going to be stored for awhile. Then healthy coat of oil.
Was considering getting some of those dehume, moisture wicking grey gun socks for some of the M2 blades but have yet to do so.0 -
I use mineral oil, cheap and food-safe. 0 -
Balistol is my go to. I oil my blade, I tend to take good care of m shi*. 0 -
I don't like to use much oil at all because it attracts pocket lint over time if you overdo it. For a basic cleaning I spray a little bit of Rem-Oil on a cloth and wipe down the blade, liners (especially the outside edges that you touch on a full-liner knife) and sometimes even the clip. Then I put the "spray tube" thingy on the nozzle, give a quick spray into the sink, and dab the little drop that forms on the end into the pivot area. I let it sit for a minute and then wipe everything down with a clean, dry cloth.
For long-term rust prevention I'll occasionally use Gunslick Gun Seal and do the same thing minus the pivot. It gets absorbed into the metal pores somewhat and keeps water and other liquids from setting in and rusting.0 -
I use Breakfree CLP. Sometimes Mineral Oil.
I wipe down the ones that don't get carried. The EDC's don't get oil often but my M4, D2 I cut into a paper towel just to oil the edge often.0 -
I've been happy with Tri-Flow over the years. Seems to do the trick. 0 -
I used to use one of the gun CLPs - forget the name but it seemed to stay pretty oily even after wiping dry.
I was looking to get TufGlide but none of the stores carry it locally - weird I know. So right as I was about to order it online, I happened upon a Soy-based version of basically the same product at Home Depot.
A quick wipedown does the trick & it's Soy so none of that questionability surrounding TufGlide - it's definitely food safe
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