Lansky sharpening advice for sharpening newbie?
I've never done any sharpening before. But I have had this Landry system here for a few months and never done anything with it. So, since I'm retired now and have a bit of time, it seems like bows the time to jump in.
I watched a YouTube video, read the instructions, and tried it out on an sold, cheap, very dull knife. It is much sharper now than when I started, but not even close to where it should be. So I'm going to keep at it on that one, then move on to a couple other cheapies I have laying around. I'm sure I'll get better just by doing.
But any tips, tricks, or solid advice that will help? I appreciate anything you got. Thanks in advance.
***Fixed auto-incorrect error in title**
I watched a YouTube video, read the instructions, and tried it out on an sold, cheap, very dull knife. It is much sharper now than when I started, but not even close to where it should be. So I'm going to keep at it on that one, then move on to a couple other cheapies I have laying around. I'm sure I'll get better just by doing.
But any tips, tricks, or solid advice that will help? I appreciate anything you got. Thanks in advance.
***Fixed auto-incorrect error in title**
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Don't use your Ares and Don't sharpen it. Best advice you will get. You could have 20 good answers over on the Facebook in 5 minutes. All these duffers are in bed, jeapordy is over! 0 -
Ive never heard of Landry system ......... 0 -
Are you talking about Lansky system? 0 -
The Lansky is for serious sharpening jobs, like creating a whole new/different bevel and edge.
The Sharpmaker is for quick touch ups.
What issues are you having with using the lansky?
I've been using the deluxe system with diamond stones for year now.
It has worked wonderfully for me. Easily sharpens any steel I've got M2, M4, S90V, M390 or A2 it works on all of them.
Clamp location is important.
Where you set the clamp on the blade will determine how even and consistent your bevel is.
Once you have a satisfactory clamping location sharpen your knife all the way.
Don't remove it until you satisfied with your edge.
Determine a way of attaching your guide rods to you stones in a consistently accurate manner.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Keyman:
The Lansky is for serious sharpening jobs, like creating a whole new/different bevel and edge.
The Sharpmaker is for quick touch ups.
What issues are you having with using the lansky?
I've been using the deluxe system with diamond stones for year now.
It has worked wonderfully for me. Easily sharpens any steel I've got M2, M4, S90V, M390 or A2 it works on all of them.
Clamp location is important.
Where you set the clamp on the blade will determine how even and consistent your bevel is.
Once you have a satisfactory clamping location sharpen your knife all the way.
Don't remove it until you satisfied with your edge.
Determine a way of attaching your guide rods to you stones in a consistently accurate manner.
Couldn't have said it better. I learned the hard way about removing the clamp before I was done.0 -
quote:Originally posted by boinkman:quote:Originally posted by Keyman:
The Lansky is for serious sharpening jobs, like creating a whole new/different bevel and edge.
The Sharpmaker is for quick touch ups.
What issues are you having with using the lansky?
I've been using the deluxe system with diamond stones for year now.
It has worked wonderfully for me. Easily sharpens any steel I've got M2, M4, S90V, M390 or A2 it works on all of them.
Clamp location is important.
Where you set the clamp on the blade will determine how even and consistent your bevel is.
Once you have a satisfactory clamping location sharpen your knife all the way.
Don't remove it until you satisfied with your edge.
Determine a way of attaching your guide rods to you stones in a consistently accurate manner.
Couldn't have said it better. +1
I could of said it better , but didnt wanna out-do Keyman ........LOL
JK....ing0 -
quote:Originally posted by boinkman:quote:Originally posted by Keyman:
The Lansky is for serious sharpening jobs, like creating a whole new/different bevel and edge.
The Sharpmaker is for quick touch ups.
What issues are you having with using the lansky?
I've been using the deluxe system with diamond stones for year now.
It has worked wonderfully for me. Easily sharpens any steel I've got M2, M4, S90V, M390 or A2 it works on all of them.
Clamp location is important.
Where you set the clamp on the blade will determine how even and consistent your bevel is.
Once you have a satisfactory clamping location sharpen your knife all the way.
Don't remove it until you satisfied with your edge.
Determine a way of attaching your guide rods to you stones in a consistently accurate manner.
Couldn't have said it better. +1
Agreed. If I can add to this, use Sharpie (I find that blue works well) to mark the bevel and let it dry (Lansky uses oil and Sharpie marker can come off when it is not dry) to see your progress.
When you are done, you can use anti bacterial gel (alcohol) can remove all trace of sharpie.
I personally has rather sturdy hands, so I use diamond free hand. This Sharpie trick (I think I saw Po has posted this) works well.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Keyman:
The Lansky is for serious sharpening jobs, like creating a whole new/different bevel and edge.
The Sharpmaker is for quick touch ups.
What issues are you having with using the lansky?
I've been using the deluxe system with diamond stones for year now.
It has worked wonderfully for me. Easily sharpens any steel I've got M2, M4, S90V, M390 or A2 it works on all of them.
Clamp location is important.
Where you set the clamp on the blade will determine how even and consistent your bevel is.
Once you have a satisfactory clamping location sharpen your knife all the way.
Don't remove it until you satisfied with your edge.
Determine a way of attaching your guide rods to you stones in a consistently accurate manner.
As a long time Lansky system user and with reasonable success, KM is right on!!0 -
quote:Originally posted by benchieking:
Don't use your Ares and Don't sharpen it. Best advice you will get. You could have 20 good answers over on the Facebook in 5 minutes. All these duffers are in bed, jeapordy is over!
Don't use my Ares?! I don't own knives that I don't carry and use.0 -
Shame to turn a 400.00 knife into a 200.00 one in a day. 0 -
Remember to include a strop in your sharpening. Sometimes when the stones don't quite get the job done, a good stropping (like 7 strokes per side) will wake that edge right up.
There is a lot of info on the web about how to strop. I use a hanging strop, like a barber has. I guess some like the short strops glued to a block of wood. I've never done that. Personally, I would just start with the hanging strop and see if it does what you need.0 -
if not mentioned already, use masking tape over clamp contact points to save your finish. i have same setup as km's and agree on it being pretty fool proof if you take time to go over their video first. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by benchieking:
Don't use your Ares and Don't sharpen it. Best advice you will get. You could have 20 good answers over on the Facebook in 5 minutes. All these duffers are in bed, jeapordy is over!
Carrying this one today....0 -
quote:Originally posted by benchieking:
Shame to turn a 400.00 knife into a 200.00 one in a day.
It's a shame to own a bunch of knives you will never use.0 -
This guy does a good tutorial of using the Lansky:
https://youtu.be/ZlI5PaXsfOk0 -
Just purchased green & white loaded strops.
That green loaded strop block really touch ups my knives. Wish I'd invested in this years ago.
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