Blade Coatings
Geocyclist sent me a PM with a great topic idea; requesting we start a thread on coatings.
"I would like the following covered by BM to start with:
1. A summary of all coatings currently and previously offered on BM knives. Discuss how they are different, chemical composition, how they are applied, etc.
2. A philosophical discussion on the differences. (why each coating was selected, etc.)
3. Data and test results on blade coatings. For example I would like to see photos, data on different coatings after making a 1000 cuts in cardboard, etc.
4. Discuss other coatings not offered by BM and their pros/cons."
"I would like the following covered by BM to start with:
1. A summary of all coatings currently and previously offered on BM knives. Discuss how they are different, chemical composition, how they are applied, etc.
2. A philosophical discussion on the differences. (why each coating was selected, etc.)
3. Data and test results on blade coatings. For example I would like to see photos, data on different coatings after making a 1000 cuts in cardboard, etc.
4. Discuss other coatings not offered by BM and their pros/cons."
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Great topic!
For me there are three reasons for coating.
1. Protect from rust
2. Reduce reflection and visibility
3. Aesthetics
#1 is my primary concern and the two that seem to work best from my use are Cerakote and hard chrome. If #2 is a concern than Cerakote all the way.
I do care some about aesthetics but it has never bothered me if coating scratches, it's just part of the deal.
I have tried everything BM has used and don't have a problem with any of them.
I'd like to see some "Armor Black" Cerakote on the black class knives.
I'd stand in line all day for a 3v 520 or 3300 with Armor Black
I'll add that I think some knives look better with some ware on the coating.
I found one of my old pics to show the ware on the 705 but I think the two tone 425 is extra cool also. (wish I still had it)You guys should play around with the concept.
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First let’s classify the “types” of coatings:
1. Spray Coatings: applied either wet (paint) or dry (powder) using a spray gun. Coatings are then typically oven cured although air-cured variants exist.
Examples used by Benchmade:
a. Teflon (BT)
b. Xylan (BT2)
c. Powder coating (no specific Benchmade designation)
d. Cerakote (BK1)
2. PVD Coatings: PVD stands for Physical Vapor Deposition. Applied in a chamber were the coatings materials are atomized and deposited onto the surface of the blade.
Examples used by Benchmade:
a. TiCN – Titanium Carbo-Nitride (BP1)
b. BC- Boron Carbide (BC1)
c. DLC- Diamond-Like Carbon (no specific designation)
3. Dip, Emersion and other coatings:
Examples used by Benchmade
a. Black Oxide- mostly used for pocket clips.
b. EDP known as E-Coat or Electrophoretically Deposited Paint. Used on discontinued Red-Class imports and pocket clips.0 -
Thanks Vance.
If "Cerakote" is "BK1" what is"BK"? I see "BK" thrown around a lot, is this the same or different than BK1?0 -
BK is the designation in the model for a coated blade.
So for example 556BK is a black blade mini grip but it does not indicate with what it's coated.0 -
Always liked BC1. Looked good and lasted. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by old angler:
Always liked BC1. Looked good and lasted.
Me Too0 -
The DLC coating on the Ritters looked good 
The DLC on the 710,s looked Bad .....or like regular BK
I was told it is because it went over a stonewashed blade on the ritters .... is this true ?
@ BM0 -
I also miss BC1 0 -
I only have BC1 on one knife, a 690. I've never heard of anyone using a 690 very hard, me included, so I don't know how well it holds up. It looks great though. I have been very happy with the DLC on the M4 Ritters. 0 -
Great thread idea! Here's my take on blade coatings.
Stainless steels don't need them, and most of the blades you produce are stainless steels, so rust prevention is not going to be the #1 priority, which means aesthetics or lubricity while cutting will take precedence.
Now, with aesthetics and even rust prevention, you need the finish to be as scratch/wear resistant as possible (if it scratches/wears off, it can't really protect from rust). Thus scratch/wear resistance should be the #1 factor when choosing a blade coating.
BT2 sucked.
The first BK coating sucked.
Cerakote is better.
DLC is basically ideal, but expensive.
BC1 is also great in the lubricity department, but I don't know how it stood up to wear.0 -
quote:Originally posted by dj:
I was told it is because it went over a stonewashed blade on the ritters .... is this true ?
@ BM
I was under the impression that it was stonewashed after the coating was applied.
The stonewashed DLC is my favorite blade coating that I have had the pleasure of owning0 -
That makes good sense to me.
Like polishing the BK , loved that glossy look , kind of like BC-1........just darker I suppose0 -
quote:Originally posted by dj:
The DLC coating on the Ritters looked good
The DLC on the 710,s looked Bad .....or like regular BK
I was told it is because it went over a stonewashed blade on the ritters .... is this true ?
@ BM
at use, the dlc on the 710 is really far from the bk though ... very strong ! my 710 still looks great after a lot, lot of use . for the same use on other knives with bk, there are no more coatings ...0 -
quote:Originally posted by dj:
That makes good sense to me.
Like polishing the BK , loved that glossy look , kind of like BC-1........just darker I suppose
I noticed some of the Ritters show a fair amount of marks from the stonewash, while others not so much. I think if they were to go regular production they could get it consistent. I think I would perfer a heavy fose of marks.0 -
quote:Originally posted by dj:
The DLC coating on the Ritters looked good
The DLC on the 710,s looked Bad .....or like regular BK
I was told it is because it went over a stonewashed blade on the ritters .... is this true ?
@ BM
+1 to the Ritters. It has a patina look, though I know it's not patina. When I wipe it with oil (Breakfee CLP) it looks good, and stays "wet" looking for a while. The oil almost soaks in. With Cerakote the oil beads up and I just wipe it off. For anyone asking why I oil a coated blade the answer is these are M4 and I want to oil the edge. I am OCD and can't get just the edge without getting oil on the coated part, so I often oil the whole blade.0 -
Is the Butterfly and other markings painted on top of the coating or laser cut through the coating? 0 -
Im pretty sure it's laser etch. I also love to oil up those dlc Ritters with mineral oil, takes on the oil real nice and makes it look good. I also recall hearing DLC doesn't protect against rust like other coating because it's porous or something like that. Probably same reason it takes the oil nicely. I actullly have seen what i think is some patina underneath the coatin on one of mine. 0 -
Black stone washed is my favorite.
Check out some of the Microtechs from the late 90's. About the only place I have seen it.0 -
I only by satin PE blades anymore. I used to only buy coated CE blades. It is easy to tell what knives I have owned the longest.
It has been proven that uncoated blades cut the best.0 -
Cerakote, matt- with graffics - yeah hah 0 -
What about TiCN? Has Benchmade used this on knives other than golds?
I want to know more about it but not a lot of info on the forums..
It seems like it's pretty durable and will last a long time on the 1210
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